DAY 7 (30th September 2023) – SEOUL (Demilitarized Zone)
Although not many people would consider this a touristy place per se, as an adventure traveller, this was a must do for me. Where else in the world is it safe to venture into a war zone, walk right up to the border, possibly having someone on the other side spying on you as you go about your day and live to tell the tale? In fact, well, at least on the South Korean side, the Demilitarized Zone or “DMZ” for short, has indeed been turned into a commercial area where multiple buses make the hour-long journey north from Seoul.
Tourists are not allowed to travel there on their own – everyone must join any one of the many tours offered in Seoul, and passports are a must. There are many strict rules to follow and there are many restricted zones which are off-limits, of course, but there are guided tours to see the infiltration tunnels dug by the North Koreans, the Freedom Bridge, and other ‘tourist attractions’. Perhaps the surprising thing for me was that many of these tourists were actually Koreans, as if they too, wanted to be part of the history of the place or perhaps to pay respects to those who sacrificed themselves in the war to preserve what the modern generation is now enjoying.
Then the rest of the day was spent in the shopping districts, and walking around the city. Since it was a Saturday, the atmosphere in and around the parks we passed by were definitely livelier and people were just enjoying the late summer evenings. We tried the famous ginseng chicken at a Michelin Guide restaurant, another must-do in Seoul before we head home the next day.
General Overview of the Demilitarized Zone
Technically, the two Koreas are still at war, and the hostilities are still pulpable, leading to several skirmishes and incidents over the years. After fighting for three years, an armistice was called in 1953 between the two sides, putting an end to the battle, but not the war. In the aftermath, an exclusive 2.5-mile-wide zone was created roughly along the 38-parallel, which acts as the de facto border between the two countries, running the entire 160-mile length of the Korean Peninsula.
Both sides have placed troops and military equipment on their sides of the border with utmost urgency and alertness. But, what they couldn’t do openly on the surface, the North Koreans have tried to do so underground. So far, four infiltration tunnels, measuring approximately 2m wide and 1.8m height have been discovered, and each of these tunnels are said to be able to move up to 30,000 troops per hour with light weapons. One of the tunnels was said to be able to accommodate artillery units through the tunnel. Since Seoul is less than 60km away from the DMZ, perhaps their goal was to build these tunnels as deep into South Korean territory as possible, and as close to Seoul as possible for a future surprise attack.
An unintended consequence of the DMZ is that because no man from either side could enter the zone, nature had taken over – animals of all kinds and diverse plant life have taken root in the last 70 years in the zone, undisturbed by human presence and industry. The wildlife have flourished, showing us that without humans, Mother Nature has no problems reclaiming her share of the earth. Unfortunately (or fortunately), no one can go in and verify the variety, numbers, health and wellbeing of the flora and fauna in the zone. Maybe it’s better this way….
Korea Peninsula Ecological Peace Tourism Information Centre
Our first stop of the DMZ tour is the Korea Peninsula Ecological Peace Tourism Information Centre in Paju – a big building with many restaurants and souvenir shops, and is the focal point of all the tourist buses. It would probably be a good idea to take a photograph of the bus you came in at this juncture, as you will only be allowed to leave the area in the same bus you came in. Being ‘lost’ is not an option, as every name is specifically tied to a bus. Throughout the tour, we would have to stop at various checkpoints, and men in military garb have boarded our buses on more than one occasion.
Just off to the left side of the building, is an area known as the Imjingak War Memorial, a small park where many war relics and symbolic structures and steles have been erected to commemorate the war that has broken many families apart. It is pertinent also that the Korean War of 1950-1953 was preceded by the then recently concluded World War II, where the Japanese Imperial Army had taken over the entire peninsula. Hence, some of the structures were also to remember that part of Korea’s history – the Japanese Occupation.
Some of these structures are stark reminders that for many, the war is not over, and many still yearn to be reunited with their lost family members – of course many have since died and never got to fulfil their wishes to see their loved ones.
